[almost] finished project!
-This will not work with very flimsy materials (such as chiffon, jersey, costume satin etc.) you need fabric with at least some natural stiffness
-These get pretty heavy so they should be made with a fitted waistband and a zipper + snap closure. Elastics will fall down on you D:
-This requires making at least 25 yards or ruffles, which means over 150 yards of hemming so…uh…set some time aside for making this.
-If you have a question about this, I’d be happy to answer, but for the love of god don’t ask it on anon.
Keep in mind that circle skirts have really long hems, and when laid flat are, quite literally, a circle. This will probably equate to being more work and volume then you want.
For this I ended up cutting a half circle skirt, three inches shorter then I wanted my finished petti/skirt to be. This is a BASE, it will not be seen, and should be made from a somewhat sturdy material that will not stretch or tear.
I cut strips of a heavy tulle netting (the scratchy awful type, not the pretty flimsy stuff used on princess skirts) until I had ten four inch by one yd strips. These get sewn together until I have one long strip, then ruffles get sewn onto the bottom.
The strip gets folded in half (right sides together) and sewn across the seam where the ruffles were attached.
Then the tulle gets gathered down to the size of my skirt hem and sewn into place. It will look like this.
Then repeat but with longer tulle! This time I used eight inch strips which were obviously sewn four inches above my four inch layer.
Now you have a lovely A-line petticoat that just needs a zipper…but that’s not what we’re making here. We want a cupcake shaped petti!
So that requires one more layer that starts from your waist. Measure from the waist of your skirt to where the tulle ends and add a seam allowance for ruffles. For the length, multiply your waist measurement by four.
Add the ruffle, and then sew something over the seam to hide fraying. In this case I used really cheap lace.
Then gather that down and sew it into place.
Now the ruffles should lay somewhat evenly but they are kind of all over the place.
you can fix that by taking a very large needle and sewing through all the layers of tulle until they are compacted down a bit
And then you *can* sew a hoop into the petti so it will never deflate! All that really requires is hand sewing hooping wire on which isn’t very complicated at all.
Uhmm and then the overskirt is just gathered circle skirts + a ruffle!
I think adding a waistband and zipper is pretty straight forward so i’ll leave that to you.
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR NEW RUFFLY MASTERPIECE!
More info on how the skirt part was made will be up here soon.
This post is part of the Stretch Yourself series, hosted by Miriam of Mad Mim and Miranda of One Little Minute. It is a two week long series about sewing with knits that have started last week, covering various topics like fabric selection, pattern-making, construction, finishing techniques with various style and projects by 10 guest bloggers.
Today I am honored to be one of the guest blogger! Don’t forget to check out Jodi at Sew Fearless who will also posting about using stretch lace.
My tutorial is for sewing your own panties, but most especially about using and attaching several types of elastics. Sewing your own panties is fast and easy, really it is much more faster than reading this whole tutorial. You don’t need too much fabric, and can even recycle fabric from old T-shirts. With imaginations, you can have a drawer full of pretty and colorful panties in no time!
You will need:
- Stretch fabric: lycra, jersey. The amount will depend on your size, but usually about 0.5 m is enough. Old T-shirts can also be used!
- 4-7 mm width elastic, about 1.5-2 m for each panties. I usually use the plush picot edge elastic, it has one soft side that will make it comfortable against the skin. I will also show how to use foldover elastic and regular elastic.
- No serger needed! An ordinary sewing machine that can sew straight stitch, zigzag stitch, and 3 step zigzag stitch (optional) is all you need. Use ballpoint sewing machine needle for sewing jersey/stretch as regular sewing needle can be too sharp and damage the fabric.
- And of course, a pattern. There are many free panties pattern available on the net, here is some of them:
- Panties – m-sewing (size S, M, L, XL)
- Free hipster pattern – Makebra(size S, M, L, XL)
- Panties – So, Zo… What do you know? (size 8-16)
You can also trace them yourself from the ones you already have. Cut the panties on the seamline and trace them on paper. Then add 6 mm (1/4″) seam allowance to all pattern pieces.
Cutting the fabric
- For most pattern, you will have three pieces, front, back, and crotch.
- Fold your fabric and place your pattern pieces. Pay careful attention to the grainline marks. The finished panties will be twisted if the grainline is off.
- You will usually have 1 front piece, 1 back piece and 2 crotch pieces (one is for crotch lining).
- If your fabric is lycra, use cotton jersey for the crotch lining because it is more comfortable. I usually cut old T-shirts for this purpose.
- Transfer the pattern markings to the fabric. You can use fabric marker, but some tiny snips are usually enough.
Points to remember:
- You can use straight stitch to sew the panties, but I prefer to use zigzag stitch to maintain the stretchiness of the fabric. When using straight stitches, sometimes the stitches might ‘pop’ when the fabric is stretched.
- I usually set my zigzag stitch on 2.5 in width and 1.5-2 in length.
- Stretch the fabric slightly when sewing, matching the edges. You don’t need to use too many pins.
Sewing the panties
- Sandwich the back piece between two crotch pieces, matching all the stitching marks. Pay attention to the fabric sides. Both right sides of the crotch piece should be against the back piece. Hold the layers with pins.
- Stitch the sandwiched layers together using zigzag stitches. Hold the fabric and stretch them slightly with your fingers to nudge the edges together.
- Roll the back piece between the two crotch pieces.
- Sandwich the front piece between crotch piece and crotch lining, again while paying attention to the fabric sides. Stitch these layers together as before.
- Turn the crotch inside out. Voila! All crotch seams are hidden inside!
- Sew each side seams of the panties. It’s time to sew the elastics!
Sewing the elastics: picot edge
Picot edge elastic has one picoted edge and one straight side. The picot edge will look very pretty peeking a bit around the waist and leg openings. Some of them has plush side to make it comfortable against the skin.
- Measure the waistline of the panties and cut your elastic about 15-20% shorter than the measurement. Add 1 cm (5/8″) allowance before you cut.
- You can also measure the elastic by placing it around your waist comfortably.
- Mark the center point of the elastic with pin or fabric marker, also mark the center back and front of the waist.
- Starting on the center back, place the elastic on the right side of the fabric, Line the straight edge (non picoted) of the elastic against the edge of fabric. Pin the center of elastic to the center front.
- Sew the elastic using zigzag stitch, making it as close as possible to the picoted edge.
- When sewing elastic to the fabric, you should stretch ONLY the elastic and not the fabric.
- I don’t use other pins other than the two above and only do the stretch-hold-sew. Stretch the elastic slightly, put your thumb down to hold it in place, and sew. Repeat until you reach the center back again.
- Overlap the end of elastic by 1 cm.
- If necessary, trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
- Turn the elastic to the wrong side and topstitch from the right side using 3 step zigzag stitch. I usually set the stitch on 4-5 in width and 1.5-2 in length.
- Stretch slightly when sewing. You don’t have to use any pins at all in this step. Don’t forget to backstitch at the end of stitching.
- If your sewing machine don’t have 3 step zigzag stitches, ordinary zigzag stitch or other decorative stitches can also be used.
- Repeat the procedure for both leg openings.
- When sewing the elastic to the leg openings, I usually start on the crotch.
- Pin end of elastic to a random point on the crotch. Pin center of elastic to approximately halfway point of leg.
- Your panties is finished! Sometimes the elastic stretched up a little after sewing, but it will spring back after washing.
Sewing the elastics: foldover elasticFoldover elastic has a slightly shiny side with a folding line along the middle. The folding line will make it easier to keep the elastic in the same width on either side of fabric. They will create a clean, neat finish to the panties.
- Starting on the center back, place the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric, Line the edge of the elastic
against the edge of fabric.
- Sew the elastic using zigzag stitch, keeping the stitches in one side of the folding line that is farther from the fabric edge. Stretch the elastic slightly when sewing.
- Trim the seam allowance .
- Fold the elastic on the folding line, and topstitch from the right side using 3 step zigzag stitch.
Sewing the elastics: regular elastic
Regular elastic may not look as nice as picot edge or foldover elastics, but it doesn’t mean that you can’t use them! You can also use this following method to sew clear elastics.
- Starting on the center back, place the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric, Line the edge of the elastic
against the edge of fabric.
- Sew the elastic using zigzag stitch. Stretch the elastic slightly when sewing.
- Turn the elastic to the wrong side and topstitch from the right side using 3 step zigzag stitch.
- Sew tiny embellishment to the front of panties, tiny bows, crystals, buttons.
- Slash the pattern in several pieces and use them to mix fabric in different colors or patterns.
- Use picot edge elastic on the neckline and armholes of your nighties and camisoles!
Thank you and I hope the tutorial will be useful!
Welcome to the Basics of the Basics of Sewing! This is a new “series” (sort of) of weekly posts that I will be putting out for people who want to learn to sew and have no experience. If you already know how to sew, then check out my “tutorials” tag instead. Note: I am not a professional seamstress, I am mostly self-taught, these tutorials are based on my own methods.
When you start out sewing garments, you of course need a sewing machine. (I will go over hand sewing sometime later) Pick one that is affordable and simple. Mine is made by Kenmore and is perfect for beginners, not sure the model however.
In your manual there will be a diagram showing what and where everything is like this:
This post is about what everything is and what it does. One must be the sewing machine before one can use the sewing machine.
1. Stitch pattern selector: Where you pick what sort of stitch you will use, generally we will stick to straight stitch and zigzag stitch.
2. Reverse stitch control: Hold this lever down while you sew to back stitch. Back stitching is stitching in reverse and is almost always done at the beginning and ending of sewing in order to secure the stitch.
3. Stitch pattern setting display: Shows the stitch currently selected.
4. Stitch length dial: Adjusts the length of the stitch, I usually use a 1.5 setting for a straight stitch, and a 2 or 3 setting for zig zag stitch.
5. Stitch width dial: Adjusts the width of the stitch, this doesn’t effect straight stitch, I generally use a 3 setting for zig zag.
6. Bobbin winder spindle: Used for winding bobbins. More on that later.
7. Spool pins: These usually are retractable, simply extend it and place your spool of thread on it.
8. Bobbin winding tension disc: Your thread will pass around this when winding a bobbin. More on that later.
9. Upper needle thread guide: This is usually the first guide in threading your machine. See your manual.
10. Thread take up lever: This will bob up and down as you sew. It will be visible when your needle isn’t inside the machine.
11. Thread tension dial: Adjusts the thread tension. Once you figure out the right tension do not adjust this. I use 5 setting on mine and never touch it.
12. Face cover: Just part of the cover of the machine. Should be open able in case of a thread jam.
13. Thread Cutter: A little blade one can use instead of scissors to quickly cut thread from machine.
14. Needle threader: Another piece of the threading puzzle. More on that later.
15. Needle plate: Protects fabric from inner workings. It should have different numbers on it which are used for different seam allowances.
16. Extension table/Treasure Box: This is detachable and doubles as a drawer for seam rippers, presser feet and other accessories.
17. Carrying handle: Um. Yah :3
18. Hand wheel: Pops out for bobbin winding, only turn this towards your self, not away.
19. Power switch: Turns machine and light on/off.
20. Machine Socket: the power cord and pedal will plug in here.
21. Free-arm: table in the back of machine, it is great for putting cuffs of shirts around to sew around them.
22. Presser foot lifter: Lift the lever to lift the presser foot. Lower it to lower the foot.
23. Presser foot holder: Holds the presser foot into place, release it to switch feet for zippers or buttonholes.
24. Thumb screw: Yep.
25. Presser foot: this holds your fabric in place while you sew.
26. Needle Clamp screw: Holds needle into place. Unscrew to release needle for switching needles.
27. Needle: You will need a sewing machine needle, not any old needle.
28. Foot control/pedal: This powers the whole thing, just like a gas pedal, the harder you press, the faster the machine will go.
Next week I will go over sewing terms and threading the machine. Maybe we will even do some straight stitching! Try and learn the bolded terms as I will be using them a lot! Ask if you have any questions :)