Ok so hehe I know it’s been a while since I’ve made this monster but I thought I would put up how I made the main petticoat for my Cardcaptor Sakura cosplay! This kind of petti is very stiff and thick, you won’t be getting any movement from this bad boy. It goes under my secondary petticoat (which is fluffier and very swishy) to give everything a sturdy base that won’t collapse!
It is basically a two tiered “Madoka” petticoat. I followed the tutorial by the dangerous ladies with some minor alterations. I would also recommend this tutorial by doxiequeen. It looks a lot easier in terms of attaching the layers, but I didn’t do it that way so… yeah xD I will probably try it next time! Break because it’s SO LONG WOW.
*Edit: Part 2 is up! Part 1 focuses on the basics, part 2 is all construciton :3
(when you’re super busy and the con is right around the corner)
This isn’t so much a tutorial as just some tips to make your life a lot simpler and less stressful when a con is approaching and you have a lot on your plate.
- Clean up your work area. Take the extra time to de-clutter and organize your stuff. It will save you a lot of time later because you won’t constantly be looking for things and you will be more productive in a clean and well organized environment.
- Order anything that you have to buy online. If it’s going to take a while to ship to you or that is so vital to your costume that you need time to re-order it if were to get lost in the mail, you want to make sure that you have as much time as possible to come up with alternate solutions in a worst case scenario. Things like shoes, special beads, wigs, and even stuff like Wonderflex or fabric from an online store can fall into this category.
- Figure out food ahead of time. If you have someone who cooks for you, you’re golden. However, if you’re on your own, you should stock up on stuff like TV dinners, instant noodles, sandwich supplies, and/or you make some large batches of food that keep well and can be reheated throughout the week. If you don’t have to interrupt your workflow to cook something each night or go out to eat, you’ll get more done.
- Make a detailed list of everything that needs to be finished. Check things off as you finish them so that you don’t forget anything until the last minute and wind up missing something vital.
- Have fun! Cosplay should be something that you enjoy doing, even if it is stressful at times. If something doesn’t get finished for the con you wanted to wear it to, it sucks, but it isn’t the end of the world. It just means that you have more time to get it perfect for your next con!
Hey there,Tumblr! Jaz here with a tutorial on making your very own Survey Corps jacket from Attack on Titan! This also works as just a cropped jacket sewing tutorial too…huh…WELP! Anyways, shall we get started? This here tutorial will cover the materials and cutting out as I’m ready to pass out and I felt like getting a headstart, more tomorrow when I start sewing!
First up is our materials!
- 1.5 yards Sew Classic Bottomweight Twill - Tobacco
- 1(1.5 if you’re doing sleeve lining too) yards Apparel Lining in a corresponding color
- Apparel Interfacing
- Sewing stuffs (pins, needles, matching thread)
- Tailor’s chalk, marker, anything to draw outlines with
- Scissors, not pictured
- Premade jacket or measurements, not pictured
Take your premade jacket and turn it inside out, leaving the sleeves on the right side. For those of you using long jackets or the like, throw your jacket on, make a mark at where it hits your waist or a little higher. Fold it half, smack it down on your fabric and proceed to trace around it with that marking utensil. Flip the fold so that you’re on the front side of the inside out jacket and trace that down. You now have your front and back patterns!
Now if you don’t have a jacket, here’s what I want you to do. Take a tape measure and measure the circumference of your bust (widest part of your chest, usually aligned with your armpits) and the circumference of your arm (the socket area). Now measure from your uppermost shoulder (where it meets your neck) down to your waist and your shoulder your wrist. Write these downs and draft something that looks like the picture above. That or just use a T-shirt that fits kinda loosely. Moving on!
The front and back pieces of my jacket. For the front piece, draw a little line about 2-3 inches out from the longest side then proceed to draw a slanted line moving down until it touches the main line. This is the little lapel part of the jacket.
Under your jacket pieces, mark up your sleeve pattern. To do this, trace along the indent in your jacket caused from having your sleeve on the right side of the jacket. Now pull the sleeve taut, and trace along the inner seam line. You should have half a sleeve! Now you can either flip the sleeve over and draw it again, or fold it along your first line and cut it out.
This is a little cheat I used because I was lazy.Tuck your liner fabric into your main fabric and cut through all four layers of fabric! Ta-dah, main pieces and liners piece all cut out! Just a hack for the lazy people.
Now cut everything out! You can definitely measure out your seam allowances, but I kinda just eye it and cut around my traced lines with some extra hanging off. I would suggest 1/2” seam allowance for beginners, 1/4” seam allowance for the intermediate or advanced folks out there. After cutting, you should have two front pieces, one back piece and two sleeve pieces, double that if you used liner!
And that’s it for now, ladies and gents! Join me tomorrow for the sewing and accent parts! If you’ve any questions, use the little envelope button I guess? Hahahaha!
Anonymous: OMG your ombré dye is so seamless! How did you get it like that? Everytime I try it I get those nasty lines in the die and it ends up looking more like stripes :(
thank you so much! yah i really wanted the ombre effect to be as smooth as possible. its a long process but heres what i did
- i made a regular batch of RIT dye
- get a 2 empty pots or bowls and a ladle
- i put about two scoops from the solid dye batch in one bucket and added some water. this will be your light dye
- the second bucket i put about 4 scoops from the solid dye batch and added some water. this will be your medium dye
- use a test strip if your fabric and dry off. this is important because it will let you know how much of a gradient you will get. if the color is too dark add more water. if a color is too light add more liquid from the solid dye bowl.
- once you do that DO NOT WET YOUR FABRIC BEFORE YOU DYE. i know it says so on the package BUT if the fabric is dry it will give the dye a chance to creep up the fabric and it’ll look a lore more seamless
- start with the most watered down dye and just bob the fabric up and down for about 15 minutes.
- repeat this process for the medium and the solid dyes
- when you are finished with all 3 layers do not dump out your dye.
- rinse your fabric till the water runs clear.
- depending on where this fabric is you have the option of washing it in a washer machine like what the packet will say. if you choose to do this keep in mind that some of the color will wash out so you may have to repeat the dying process to keep the vibrancy of the color.
- once youve rinsed or machine washed your fabric put it in the dryer
- once your piece is 100% dry you will be able to tell what the colors really looks like and decide if you need to dye your fabric once more.
hope this helps you out!
By your friendly neighborhood Lowen bc she does it all the time and is taking a break
What you’ll need:
- Your fabric
- Embroidery thread
If you’re using metallic thread (in place of embroidery thread):
- Metallic needle
- Bobbin thread (forgot to add it in the pic)
Map out your design
This tutorial was an after thought, but place tracing paper over the area where you want the applique to be and map it out!
Retrace design onto Wonder-Under
Follow Wonder-Under Instructions and using your tracing paper map, place applique in the right place
When the design is on, follow stabilizer instructions and place it to the back of the fabric
I usually use 2-3 layers
I’m using metallic thread for Kongwai and my settings are:
Tension - 3
Width - 5
Length - 0
For Length 0 I like to do two layers of embroidery thread. Heres a comparison of 1 and 2 layers